Thursday, December 18, 2008

10,000 Words, or 10 Pictures

I have about 10,000 words to say about my experience here in Chile, but I figured, why not just post 10 pictures? You know the equation. So here´s a series of about 10ish pictures which try to sum up my time here..... :-)I posted this in an earlier blog, but it´s a good representation of what a lot of this semester was: reflection. I came here to Curiñanco on Yom Kippur to fast and reflect. One of the most incredible things about my time here was how much time I had to myself, which really let me get to know myself and my thoughts and feelings.
Here you have it, the people of the pensión I called home for about 5 months (minus Diego and la Señora Carmen, perdón). From left to right: Allison, Mati (not to be confused with beverage Mate), Ryan, Jorge, Luis, Manolla (daughter), Jaqui (owner). this was on a boat to an island called Corral featuring old Spanish forts. Damn, it rained a lot. The first month in Valdivia, it rained 29 of the 31 days. I´m still leaking.
Jorge, my closest Chilean friend, and a truly incredible person. He introduced me to mate and helped me get through the rough times. Here we are with a volcano in the background. it´s true, we are in the middle of the road, but we managed to dodge to the side of the quickly oncoming traffic.
One of the best days I spent in Valdivia. Jorge, Allison, Jaqui, manolla, me. We went to the park on one of the first days of sun, played soccer and teeter totter, and ate a lot a lot.
The lobos marinos (sea lions) are one of Valdivia´s main attractions. They have a reputation of biting your limbs off, which is why I look a bit nervous here....
Another of Valdivia´s fames...Kuntsmann, one of the founding German families, has their brewery here. Valdivia is filled with artesan beer, with Kuntsmann leading the way. We had some good times here. Also, the cardboard cutout in which I´m posing isnt so far off...I think I gained about 10 pounds in Chile, a.k.a. land of endless bread.
At our pensión with Alex, me, Jorge. This is our famous "Vamos, Valdivia!" pose, which is one of our inside jokes which will never, ever, get old. It comes from the mayoral race in Valdivia, in which the entire city is covered with huge pictures of the candidates. Alcalde Berger, a gruff looking guy who won, had huge carboard cutouts with him with a serious face and thumbs up, saying Vamos, Valdivia. We are emulating as best as we can here.
Another one of the best nights ever. Me, dressed as tourist. Manola the fairy, Allison dressed as me, other Allison a gypsy. We went to a friend´s cabaña and hung out with gringos, Ecuadorians, Columbians and Chileans alike. They had to drag us out of there, it was so fun.
About 11 gringos gathered at our pensión for Obama election night. Alex animatedly found updates faster than CNN, although he lacked their sweet holograms (still in awe). Notice the celebratory alcohol in the foreground. We were all so excited, Allison actually started crying during Obama´s election speech. One of the times where we all would have really loved to be there for an incredible, historic moment.
Thanksgiving (día de acción de gracias in spanish) at Alex´s Chilean parents´house. The six of us, led by the incredible efforts of allison, put on Thanksgiving, Chilean style, cooking all day. Afterward, we went in a circle and said what we were thankful for. Naturally, I cried. I´m going to post, without her permission :-) what Allison said in reflection about the day:

"In a lot of ways, you could say that our Chilean Thanksgiving was the perfect metaphor for my experience here this first semester: arriving without any sense of what the “ingredients” were, searching unsuccessfully for all the things I had left in the U.S. and trying to replicate the world I had known before, when replication was impossible. In the end, you improvise and you realize that, in many ways, plum sauce is just as good as cranberry sauce and, though you had to abandon the pumpkin pie, it will be waiting for you next year. Though it may be difficult at times, you can still build a life and a community for yourself amongst strangers — beautiful in spite of and because of the differences."--Allison
I am still in complete awe at this entire hike. Up above you can see the glaciar, called Cerro Tronador. We hiked, at extreme peril (sorry Mom!) close to the source to drink the purest water of our lives. Then we climbed up to 6,000 feet and continued to gaze in awe at both sides of the Andes. Just an all around incredible weekend trip, and a nice representation of all the awesome weekend trips we took, from Pucón to Puyeue to Puerto Montt.
Here´s an anecdote for you peoples: Jorge (in the middle) introduced me to the church here, and I went with him about 8 or 9 times throughout my stay here in Valdivia. It was always the incredible music, with the whole congregation singing loudly and passionate, that brought me back. This last Sunday, we all sang a song called "With the Power of Your Love." I was singing at the top of my lungs, and getting pretty emotional, when I look to my left and see a 45 year old women with her hands raised up towards the heavens, praising, and just BELTING out the song, with an incredible beautiful voice that you could hear over the 80 plus people singing. I looked at her and just lost it, the tears started flowing. Afterward they called Jorge and I up since we were both leaving town, and we got to say some words to the congregation. Talk about a first: First good-bye speech in Spanish to Chilean church...that´s something I never thought I would say! Afterwards everyone prayed for us to have a safe return home. This church was truly one of the best things I did here in Valdivia.
Here you have 5 of the 6 kids in the program: Lilly, me, Alex, Adam, Allison (sorry Ian, you shouldn´t have vomited that weekend) in Puyeue, near the volcano peak. We all became pretty close in our own ways, and I feel really lucky to have gotten to share my time here with such wonderful people.
In Cunco with some of Jorge´s family...his 80 yr. old grandma, mom, and cousin. A truly awesome experience to spend the sept. 18 holidays with his family (sept. 18 is similar to our july 4th, but celebrated for about 4 days here). Their hospitality and amount of food they shoved in me will never be forgotten.


And so it is...I suppose I lied, I posted about 13 pictures. It turns out there was a lot a lot of cool amazing stuff I did here. One last thing I want to share.....

This past Sunday, some of us went to the beach for one last beach romp. I suggested we do a little ceremony...we would all say one wish-hope-prayer-whatever we had. Here´s mine:

"I want to take everything I´ve learned in these past 7 months, go to Italy and be with someone I love for a month, and then return to my home, and bring all of it back there. I want to take a semester to learn outside of the classroom, explore, find community and some peace."

That´s what you realize when you go far away from home. You realize your home is where your heart is, and my heart is with someone in Italy and in California, in my country, in my language, in all the people I´ve ever known. As the girl in House from Mango Street says at the end, "I had to go away to come back."

And I see now, I did. I went away so that I could come back, come back to my home, and come back to myself. Here´s to the next stage of this crazy, crazy life :-)

Love,
Ryan


"When you find yourself face to face with something you don´t understand, maybe you should ask, ´"What do you think? Is this a gift?´"--Adam Weisberg (thanks Michal for showing me)

Tuesday, December 9, 2008

Put A Sock In It

A deadly water bottle assassin killed my computer about a month ago, which has made my blog entries wane. So now I find myself en el "Cibercafe," located in the backright corner, with a sweet view of the bathroom and its cleaning supplies. Talk about inspiration!

This, I believe, will be my last Chile blog. It has been quite a ride, family, friends, and occassional random web stalkers. We have shared bathroom references, more bathroom references, and occassional abstract anecdotes to what I´m actually doing here. So so lovely.

And now, I´m going home.

As most of you were probably aware, I was going to spend a year studying in Chile (14 months outside the U.S. in total). And about a week ago, 6 months into my stay, I hit the wall, and I just knew, all of a sudden, that it was time to come back. I actually went to the forest, a la Thoreau, to write a long impassionaed letter about how I was feeling, my reasons for returning, all of that, which I might still share. But for now, I find it sufficient to say: I had an incredible, incredible time here. I came here to learn Spanish and get to know myself better, and that´s exactly what I´ve done. I´ve had the biggest ups and downs in my life, and in the very end of things, I can say I´m happy for every single moment I had here, that I had a million once-in-a-life-time experiences, that I dont regret a single thing. What else can we ask for, in the end of things?

To better illustrate my feelings and reasons for returning, i´d like to share with you all a little anecdote from this past weekend. With Alex and Adam from my program, I traveled to Bariloche, Argentina, my second time there. Only this time, besides watching people drink mate from the bank to in the bathroom (no joke), we decided to hike a glaciar, called Tronador (thunder) because as you hike you occassionally hear the glaciar cracking and spitting off little gumball loogies into the valley below, which sounds like thunder. It was truly incredible, we hiked into the valley and got pretty close to the source of the water, where we bottled up and drank the freshest water of our life. Screw you, Arrowhead, I´ll get to the source myself!

And after 6ish hours of hiking, powering through snow and giant horse flies who wouldnt even let us stop to pee, we reached a lodge at 6,000 feet where you can stay, and have a 360 degree view of andes mountains in every direction. we havent invented good enough words yet in any language to describe this view. alex and i woke up at 6 am to see the sunrise. the only word i got for that one is dayammmmm.

and finally, here´s the anecdote that describes it all:

alex wakes me up at 6 a.m. i groggily reach up above on the shelf to pull out my two beautifully soft and warm wool hiking socks. somehow, they shoot out of my hand, i fall onto my side like an oval shaped egg rolling around, and when i right myself, i look down expecting to see my two beautifully soft and warm wool hiking socks on the ground next to me. any decent csi bullet spray detective would have shown the only possible place for them to land, based on angle and location of fall, would be on the floor, somewhere around me.

BUT THERE WAS ONLY ONE SOCK THERE......

It was a nightmare. The only Andes mountains sunset of my entire life approaching. An impossible horrific situation...a missing wool sock, without any explanation. It was terribly insignificantly annoying. Muttering to myself over and over again how very impossible and ridiculous this moment was, I turned up every matress and floorboard on this side of the Andes, to no avail. Finally, I gave up, found other socks, and went outside to enjoy the sunset. Then I came back to look some more. Still no results. A couple hours later, I return again, this time constructing far flung theories about how perhaps it landed in my pants, how perhaps Alex stole it, how perhaps it bounced off a floor board, a matress and an errant horsefly and flew out the open window, where an Andes current carried it to the top of the glaciar, where I would be forced to conduct a dangerous life threatening glaciar rescue.

Nada nada nada. At one point, Alex, who kindly helped me search, was like "hey man, you might just have to forget it." It was good advice, at some point you gotta let it go, right? So I decided I would walk to the other side of the room, my last grand search. Nothing again, until Alex, who followed me over there, looks on the ground and sees my beautifully soft and warm wool hiking sock sitting there like a sad lost puppy. He hands it to me, and in the glory of an NFL touchdown, I do mad fist pumps and hop around the room. Glory is mine.

Now, perhaps youre asking me how this crazy long drawn out anecdote has anything to do with deciding to return home. Here it is, two things: the mysterious force of life and persistence. mysterious force of life: I had no idea where this south american journey would take me. i had my ideas, like where i thought the sock would land at my feet, but as tends to happen in life, i got thrown around for an exciting tumble. and here´s where persistence comes in, something my mom has always always told me: its all about persistence. everytime she would tell me maybe i should think about switching programs when i would tell her i was struggling, i would shrug her off. its me, i would say, i need to try harder, make it work. i can be happy anywhere.

And man, I fought. I persisted and persisted, and I had some incredible times here, some incredible highs. But also some incredible lows, the lows of loneliness, missing your language, missing the companionship of those who know you. And then, out of nowhere, appears the magical sock. Across the room, where you least expected it, where you hadnt even looked yet. Persistence isnt always just sticking things out cuz you should, it turns out...persistence is staying with yourself, compassionately, seeing what appears, listening to yourself over and over again. And everything in me is telling me to return, take the semester off Ive always wanted, go and explore and find community and learn about permaculture and rest my tired spirit. Be home in April for my sister´s second baby being born. Get to know my first nephew better. Read and write and learn to knit and reflect on everything these past 7 months has meant to me. Thats where I found the sock, when I least expected it. And I am so so happy for everything...so happy that I put the sock up there in the first place, so happy it got thrown around and I spent so much time searching for it, so happy to pick up the stinky sock and start the next journey of my life. I have about 11 days left here, and Im blessed with the time to say good-bye to something that has just meant so much to me, so very very much. To write letters to the girls at the orphanage, to Jacqui and Manola from the hostal, to all the incredible kids in the program. To walk down Avenida Picarte just one more time, see the blind man in his same white coat play his accordeon as people walk by without stopping, walk down the costanera and watch people rowing on the calle calle river, watch this beautiful valdivian spring, which has brought so much life, spread its seeds to the wind, that giving and receiving that is life itself.

Thank you Valdivia, thank you life, you have given me so so much.

So for some hard facts, so you understand what´s next: I leave Chile Dec. 20, to go to Cancun, Mexico with my family for vacation for one week. From there, I fly Dec. 28 to Bologna, Italy, to visit Kalen for a month. And then Jan. 28 I fly home to San Diego, where I´ll try to plant some tomatoes and make up for my deepening carbon footprint, hehe.

So that´s it folks. I´m gonna put a sock in it for now. There may come a night in the future when I awake from a dream and notice my fingers moving antsily, like theyre trying to write on a keyboard, and Ill sleep walk over to the keyboard and just start typing another blog. Be prepared, peoples, be prepared....

Love to you all :-)

Ryan

"Every night when I go to sleep, I die. And the next morning, I´m reborn." --Mahatma Gandhi

Thursday, November 27, 2008

Thanksgiving Is Backwards, Shouldn´t It Be GivingThanks?

We have a tradition in my family. When I was a kid, Thanksgiving was always at my grandparents Arlene and Milt´s house in Palm Springs, land of cousin pillow fight wars. We would gather once a year at the long oval shaped glass table, and each person would say one thing he or she was grateful for.

I live in a family of criers. It´s beautifully true. We´re a bunch of saps, every one of us. You can go through the archives of all of our Thanksgivings, and you won´t find one where at least a couple people haven´t shed tears during this ceremony. My mom, especially, always impresses us, usually by forming tears in her eyes before she can even get a word out.

I´m happy to say that I´m fulfilling the family birthright. As I sit here writing this, I can feel the tears filling up my eyes. It´s my first Thanksgiving away from home, and I´m not just away from home, I´m thousands of miles away, in a different time zone and a different language. I didn´t quite realize how special and crazy that is until just right now, I think.

Today my family is going to gather in our house in San Diego. My grandpa Milt, tall lanky grandpa Milt, died several years ago. So now we gather in San Diego, some new family members, some of them still pooping in diapers (we´re all hoping my brother Adam will move past this phase soon). And everyone will go around to say something they´re grateful for, and tears will be shed, and people will leave the table uncomfortably full. Ah, the beauty of traditions.

I hadn´t even thought about continuing the tradition from down here until this morning, when I received a beautiful email from Kalen, with 5 things she was grateful for. And when she asked me, I was amazed to watch all the things pouring out of me. So here are a couple things I´m grateful for....

1. I´m grateful for you, every single one of you. You are all on this list serve because you´ve formed the fabric of my life. You have all impacted me in ways that stun me. You have all taught me, shown me compassion and love. You have all blessed my life in some way, and for that I am truly grateful.

2. I´m grateful for the tears that keep trying to get out, but I tell them, I won´t cry in the Windsor Elementary School computer lab where I help teach English. Those tears are little liquidy reminders of home, of everything I left and love so much back up in the northern hemisphere. To be able to miss something is a beautiful thing.

3. I´m grateful for my family. I´m grateful for growing up in a loving home, where my dad threw me groundballs everynight in the living room, focusing on my backhand, where my mom asked me every day how school went and cared and endured years where I didn´t feel like sharing, I´m grateful to my sister for always making me feel like I was special even when I didn´t feel like it, I´m grateful to my brother for taking me to costa rica and showing me the joy of exploring the world, for sharing his wisdom and flatulence with me. To my loving grandparents, cousins who hid beanie babies and played red indian, aunts and uncles who always respond to my emails. To everyone.

4. I´m grateful for the struggles. I´m grateful for being made fun of as a kid, for feeling like I didn´t belong, for this semester which has been one of the biggest ups and downs of my life. There´s a quote by Richard Bach that says, "I gave my life to become the person I am today. Was it worth it?" I´m grateful to be able to say yes, thank you, I love who I am.

5. I´m grateful for forgiveness. I´m grateful that my family sat around the couch a couple months ago and had an honest, loving conversation about everything going on. I´m grateful that I´ve learned that to forgive means to embrace and love everything that´s there, even if we didn´t choose it. I´m grateful to be able to start forgiving myself, for not always being how I want, for not feeling how I want to, for not saying something the right way or doing something the right way. And to attempt to do the same with everyone else in my life.

6. I´m grateful for technology. With all the negative impacts it has had on our culture, it connects me and all of us every single day. It allows me to share this with you, to send an email and receive it in seconds, to feel like you´re together when you physically aren´t. And I´m grateful that with all of that, it´s still a day like Thanksgiving, with its most basic elements of food and family, that is the most warm and important.

7. I´m grateful for the longing we all have. It´s a longing for freedom, for joy, to express ourselves and our most basic human nature. I´m grateful to see that no matter what we all do, no matter how misguided or lost we are, that it all stems from that longing we share. I´m grateful to see we´re all doing the best we know how in that certain moment. To love that longing and all the manifold ways it manifests itself, is to love life itself, I think.

8. I´m grateful for health, for my ability to get up in the morning without a problem, go to the bathroom, walk outside, stretch, run, jump, all without thinking twice about how incredible it all is.

9. I´m grateful for what we have...sink faucets that give us water when we need it, cupboards and markets full of food, clothes that cover us, houses that shelter us, people that surround us.

10. And the last thing I´m grateful for, is being alive. I´m grateful to be given this one chance to truly live, to express myself, with all the joy and pain that comes simultaneously. This one wild and crazy life, as Mary Oliver called it. I´m grateful to be able to honor myself, my body, my spirit, and all of you, in everything we all do, even though I´m pretty apt to forget sometimes.

Man, I wish I asked myself this question every single day!

May your Thanksgivings bring you exactly what you need :-)

Love,
Ryan

Sunday, November 9, 2008

Don't Cry For Me, Argentina

Left to right: Roberto (chilean), Mari (German), Ryan (buzzed from wine), Walter (crazy Brazilian), Omer (Israeli), Francisca and Antjie (more Germans) at the dinner/barbeque we made.
The group on the hike. Walter undoubtedly saying, "brotha" to Roberto. Read paragraph dedicated to Walter below to understand what I mean.
Omer, Ryan, Walter
The original group: Roberto, Mari, Francisca, Antjie, Ryan. Apparently in Chile bunny's ears behind people in pictures is also funny.


A Chilean, an American, an Israeli, a Brasilan and 3 German girls walk into an Argentinian bar...

It sounds like the start to a complicated and potentially hilarious joke, but it's actually just a good description of my weekend! Let's start from the beginning....

Thursday afternoon found me at the bus stop across from my house, late for class as usual, huddling from the rain as usual. All of a sudden, 3 German girls arrive! They are also exchange students at my university here, and we had met and chatted a couple months ago. When I asked them their plans for the weekend, they said they were leaving for Bariloche, Argentina the next morning, which fortuitously enough, I had planned to do, but had given up because Jorge couldn't go. It was too coincidental to pass up!

So I somewhat invited myself along, bought a bus ticket, and woke up the next morning at 8 a.m. to catch my bus. Or so I thought...

Arriving at 8:46 a.m. for my 8:45 a.m. bus, rather groggy, I became rather alarmed when I noticed my bus leaving, quite rudely, without me. Roberto, the lone Chilean in our group, took the lead as the Chileans are apt to do, and erupted into a dead sprint with my backpack to the top of the street, with me also shouting and following behind him. Fortunately the big bus caught a redlight, so I frantically borded, where I was informed I was on the wrong bus. But fortunately again, it was headed in the right direction, so three hours later I eventually transferred to the right bus. I'm still a little confused about the Chilean bus system...everything else in Chile is late, so why the buses?

Anyway, bus number 2/a.k.a correct bus found me seated next to a 30 year old Irish girl traveling through Patagonia with her boyfriend. She was the first Irish girl I met, and I was pleased to able to tell her my name (Ryan in case you forgot) is Irish. I was also pleased to listen to the Irish accent for 4 hours, which I think is one of the coolest accents. We had quite a shambollucking time (thank you for this excellent addition to my vocab, Irish girl), and I also enjoyed being able to speak English and express myself eloquently.

So we arrived to Bariloche, Argentina, my first entry to the country, singing, "Don't Cry for Me Argentina" (sadly this did not happen, but reflecting on it now, it was one of my life's greatest regrets that it did not), and inadvertently smuggling 3 mandarin oranges across the border. Sorry agricultural protection control!

Then we found the coolest hostal, ever. I met my first Spanish person ever, who had an excellent lisp. I met my first Uruguayan and Argentinian people too, whose accent and ease of understanding compared with the Chileans was also quite nice. The nighttime (which lasted until 4 a.m.) was to me the pinnacle and best of what it means to travel. I had conversations with the Germans, the various Spanish speakers, and this Brasilian guy named Walter, who deserves his own paragraph to follow. All of this took place with the mate being passed around (Argentina, along with the "guys" of Paraguay and Uruguay, are the kings of mate).

Paragraph dedicated to Walter the Brasilian:
Walter the Brasiliean spent 9 months studying in New Zealand, where he learned to talk like a mixture of a rasta man and a rapper. His every fourth word was "brotha" and he often told people not to be haters, even when they clearly were not hating. Just the kind of guy who creates his own interesting show wherever he goes. He and the Israeli had some very funny language exchanges, where they called each other haters in thick accents, and said slightly offensive words, which I have written off as not really understanding what they were saying.

Saturday we assembled our odd group which represented 3 continents and approximately 6ish languages, and headed to a big lake, where we hiked for a bit and traded off speaking English, Spanish, Portuguese, Israeli, and a bit of German for good measure. It was here I discovered my talent for imitating the German language, possibly a trait passed down to me from my father, who also enjoys overdoing the gutteralness of German. Funny enough, in doing this, and saying words like Slcheim and Stineanjf, I accidentally said things that actually existed. The Germans were extremely entertained.

Saturday night is where that first sentence I wrote at the top of this blog actually took place. We went to see a reggae band. Being in South America, it didn't actually start till 1 a.m., and faithful to my grandpa-ness at heart, I fell asleep at the table at 2:30. But Youthful Ryan rebounded thanks to the insistent Germans, and I hit the dance floor after awaking for a solid 1.5 hours! Between the plentiful availability of balloons and Cole family Bar Mitzvah dances, we had a rocking good time. And now, for funniest moment of the weekend recap:

--Me, the 3 Germans, and Roberto the Chilean were at dinner Friday night when I told everyone about when I didn't cut my hair for 1.5 years, and had super long hair. They were amazed, and so I wanted to show them a picture, which happened to be in my money belt, wrapped around my waste, under my shirt. I said, "Check this out," and started to reach for the money belt when I was met by the scream of one of the German girls, saying, "No!!" I looked down and realized that from her angle, it appeared I was reaching down to show everyone my pubic hair. When we all realized what had happened we started BUSTING up laughing, tears flying. It makes me chuckle still as I sit here writing about it.

Well that's about it. An awesome weekend, 4 new friends, a new passport stamp, and the word "shambolluck" in my vocabulary. May you all avoid shambolluck in your life!

And a parting quote:

"Live your life from your heart. Share from your heart. And your story will touch and hear people's souls." --Melody Beattie

Amen, sista!

Love,
Ryan

Wednesday, November 5, 2008

Who I Voted For

You know when you just gotta do something? When everything builds up and feels just really strong and powerful and you gotta do something? That's how I feel right now. And I decided, I need to write.

There's an incredible mix and swarm of emotions inside me. Like my insides are a big cauldron and a crazy leprechaun dumped in all the colors of the rainbow and is swirling them around, over and over and over again with his big wooden mixing spoon. Like a pack of ambitious Amish are making their year's worth of butter in there. Like Barack Obama and George Bush and everything else I've ever known are at a pool party, all trying to mingle, some of them rather unsucessfully.

My God, where do I start? Barack Obama got elected. We elected him. The students and the youth that never ever vote voted. Left and right people are saying I voted for the first time and they're saying it with pride. I want to cry when I think about what Obama said last night, about the 106 year old black woman in Atlanta, Georgia who stood in line to cast her vote, a woman born a generation past slavery, who lived through Jim Crow and signs on public establishments saying "Your skin's pigments are a different color, you can't enter," who saw Martin Luther King Jr. with his message of peace and freedom and justice captivate a people and a nation and then get assassinated, a woman who saw schools integrated and a country change its laws and start to change its character, even if it took an eternity.

"Yes we can," he shouted and they repeated over and over again last night, an orator of the caliber of Frederick Douglas and MLK Jr., a pastor carrying his church because they wanted to, needed to, believe.

It was incredible, as us 10 gringos sat around our house, glued to the television and computers wildly finding poll updates and funny clips of John Stewart. Incredible in that we watched a truly historic moment filled with so much hope and jubilation and promise. Incredible in that we all collectively passed a serious moment of nostalgia, of homesickness, of wanting to be where the action was, where are country was.

There are some moments, like when you find out your sister is pregnant and his having another boy, when your friends are going through a tough time and they need a hug, when you need a hug, that you really wish you could be there. This was another of those times.

And when you get past that lump in your throat, it's a beautiful feeling. It means we love that place, those people. It means finally we can get past this collective generational sense of shame that we live in a country looked down upon by so many other places, that when we tell people here we're from the U.S. the first two questions we hear are "what about Bush?" and "isn't the U.S. too racist to elect black Obama?" That we can say now, "I am American, and my goodness we have screwed up a lot, but a nation of people, the people that have never before made the difference, are clamoring and saying Yes We Can."

That, to me, is the true beauty in all this. Obama's message of hope, of change. Yes, as a country, we have done some seriously shitty things. As people, each one of us, has struggled, had pains, at times dealt with all of our conflicting feelings about ourselves, about the the world we live in. Who among us has not said, "I don't want to be myself right now?" One of the few political issues I feel seriously passionate about is gay marriage, and the U.S. collectively said no to it last night, my home state said no. It fills me right now with this pit in my stomach, this knowledge that we continue to discrimate, however we want to call it, however we want to justify it.

But am I not discrimating too, as I look down on what I perceive as their discrimation? As I live in a country and even a house that overwhelmingly doesn't support gay marriage or even just being gay, how do I deal with this? In thinking about this, in truly feeling this out, I have come to one conclusion:

To love them.

To love them? Yes, to love them. To love the people, to love everyone, for who they truly are inside, apart from all the things that society piles up on us, that people pile up on us, that we pile up on ourselves.

Jonathon Livingston Seagull by Richard Bach says it better than I can:

(fletcher): "I don't understand how you manage to love a mob of birds that has
just tried to kill you."
"Oh, Fletch, you don't love that! You don't love hatred and evil, of
course. You have to practice and see the real gull, the good in every one
of them, and to help them see it in themselves. That's what I mean by
love. It's fun, when you get the knack of it.”

One of the hardest and perhaps most important things in the world is to love when it seems the hardest. To love your fellow people, to love yourself, when part of them hates, when part of them discriminates. To realize we're all in this together, that none of us is better than anyone else. We just are, we just are, and we're all doing the best that we know how in this moment. How can we not love this, love all these follies, love every single moment we try and get knocked down and get back up again and again and again? "Joyful participation in the sorrows of life," as the Tibetan proverb goes.

That's what Jesus, Ghandi, MLK Jr. did. That is how true incredible inspired beautiful change happens, through a loving embracing forgiving accepting spirit that holds all of the world in its heart, all of the perceived good and bad and everything else, and says, "I can hold you, and I can love you, because I know what you really are, I know what you're really made of."

So as the television channels show the blue and red states and all these interesting statistics and breakdowns and numbers, who voted for who, I just hope, from the very bottom of my heart, that we all, in our own ways, vote for love, tolerance and celebration, and embracing. Because in the end, in the very end of things, from where else does it stem? What else truly matters?

I end with a Tibetan prayer, given to me by Kalen, that says exactly what I want to say:

"May all beings everywhere, with whom we are inseparably interconnected,
be fulfilled, awakened, and free. May there be peace in this world and
throughout the entire universe, and may we all together complete the
spiritual journey."

Love peoples,
Ryan

Tuesday, November 4, 2008

Manolla Shows Us How To Play The Blues

Well, after setting a vociferous blog pace for the first month, I've tailed off significantly. I'm not quite sure what I've been doing, but sure enough, the time is a passin'. I spent one weekend with three friends in Chiloe, the seconds biggest island in South America (click on the link to see photos). Lots of good stories, some small penguins, and typical dish called "curanto," which comes with 5 different types of animal on the same plate. Click on the link to guess which five, and also to see how I felt after managing to eat just 1/3 of this ridiculous monster.

I also recently got an internship helping teach English at the Escuela Windsor, a private bilingual school. It's been incredible so far, and makes me want to be a teacher more and more every day. I'll hopefully find the steam to write more about it soon! So far, all I can say is, I have sung Yellow Submarine with the kiddies twice, and it went over well.

And last but not least, here you have Ryan and Manolla, the blues duo, with a mostly unintelligible song. I believe the only word you can make out is "harmonica," but that really says it all. Six year old Manola makes her debut in this truly inspired, stand-out performance:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2385156&l=f1953&id=1241186






And a parting quote:

“If this day in the lifetime of a hundred year is lost, will you ever touch it with your hands again?”
–Zen Master Dogen.

May we live a hundred years and not lose too many days!

Love,
Ryan

Tuesday, October 21, 2008

The Bird Man, Magical Mate, And The Beauty Of Community (hey that rhymes!)

I have decided, to prove to you all that I don't always just sit around dancing with trees and reflecting on the nature of life, to dedicate this blog to something really cool I got to do this past weekend.

The United States shares some things with Chile-the pacific ocean, relative isolation from other countries, McDonalds. It also shares a rather horrific past of indigenous people murdered, forcefully converted, their land taken away, discrimation, and lots of other sad things that humanity can do sometimes. The Mapuche is the main indigenous group of Chile, and it has suffered mightily at the hands of first the Inca and next the Spanish, and then the Chileans.

But don't you worry, this blog isn't about bemoaning the past...it's about celebrating the beauty of the present and the hope of the future! I'm in an agroecology club here, and the club organized a weekend with two Mapuche leaders to hold traditional ceremonies, drink hella mate, and salute the beauty of community and forging a positive future.

---This calls for a brief interlude to discuss the wondrous beauty that is mate. Mate is an herb that is crushed up, dried, and consumed with water in a gourd. It has quite a history in South America, especially places like Paraguay and Argentina. But what attracted me to mate was not it's bitter, at first kind of gross taste, nor the fact that it helps you pass things through your system like you're a human waterslide (it had just been too long since I made a bowel reference). Nope, what attracted me is the communal way in which mate is consumed.

So you sit in a circle, and one person is the cebador (pourer). He/she fills up the gourd with mate and hot water, and passes it to the first person in the circle, who finishes it and passes it back to the pourer, who refills the gourd and passes it to the second person, and on and on in a perfect circle. Sorry bacteria freaks, but you drink out of the same straw, just adding to this communal tradition. You're not just sharing the herb, you're sharing your intimate bacteria. Don't you even think about wiping off that straw! You can betcha if there's one thing I'll be bringing back to the States, it is blessed mate. Prepare yourself, my friends....---

I'll be posting some serious mate pictures soon. Now, back to the main function.

So yes, about 10 of us spent the night in Bonifacio, a 1.5 hour bus ride from Valdivia very close to where I fasted last week. It's about a 1,000 person pueblo with open pastures, pure ocean views, dirt roads, and something very sacred and pure in the air. The house we stayed in was outfitted with all kinds of Mapuche instruments. I sort of learned to play the katruun, a circular tube with a horn at the end (somewhat similar to the Jewish shofar). After each katruun session you turn it upside down and watch all your expended spit drip out. Mmm....

The night was like the rural indigenous childhood I never had. We sat around in a circle, passing the Mate, mostly listening to the two Mapuche elders speaking of things which sounded very very wise. The whole time I was mostly in awe at just how cool this all was. A big theme of the weekend was rebuilding Mapuche self-esteem and learning the Mapuche language, which is nearly going extinct due to racism and discrimation against all things Mapuche. Their language is beatiful, totally based on 19 symbols, of things in nature and things integral to their culture. It occurred to me here just how important a language is to a people's culture, how much of their sacred identity it forms. It made me very thankful that people like these Mapuche leaders exist and fight mightily to maintain their beautiful traditions and culture.

So far I've neglected to reveal the identity of the one of the two Mapuche elders: El Hombre Pajaro (literally, the bird man). In the Mapuche tradition, there is one hombre pajaro every generation, and we were graced with his presence. He has an ability to communicate with the birds, an incredible knowledge of them. His bird calls and chanting blew me away. He's a poet also, and writes poems about all the birds (I bought the book and managed to spill wine on it, but hopefully it'll just flavor the words even more).

El hombre pajaro led us through a Mapuche ceremony in the morning, where several people played Mapuche instruments, and everyone stood facing the sun, directing their prayers that way. After the ceremony we ate an incredible amount of oysters, homemade sopaipillas (like fried bread), and drank a lot more mate.

At the bus stop on the way back, a middle-aged couple struck up a conversation with us, and insisted on giving us their crackers, a simple gesture which just blew me away. So it is with many people here, so generous, without asking for anything in return.

Even after all this time
The sun never says to the earth,
"You owe Me."
Look what happens
with a love like that,
It lights the Whole Sky. --Hafiz

Be well, peoples!

Love,
Ryan

Tuesday, October 14, 2008

When The Trees Invite You To Dance

That's me, about to be eaten by Valdivian sea lions.
Doing capoeira, martial arts fight/dancing/craziness (explanation to follow in later blog)

Alright so it's not the tree, but it's a nice one.

Maybe it was doing capoeira in the Botanical Gardens today, maybe it was sipping about 6 cups of mate, but I got inspired. And as I was walking down a very nice cobblestone lined pedestrian avenue, I saw a very nice looking tree, leaves bristling in the wind. I thought I'd sit for a minute, and that minute turned into an hour, and when I was done I had written this. I don't have the picture of the tree on here yet, but I'll get it here soon!

Tree

Have you seen how the leaves dance to the wind's beat? The leaves, green and fresh, nod yes, yes, to life. I accept what you offer, I accept where you take me, I will dance to your beat.

This tree remembers. Its rings, circular like this life, show us how it remembers every single year. It remembers when the wind came, a month ago, and itself, so bare. Bare, no leaves to spare. Just an empty hulking figure proudly bearing the cold, beautiful in its vulnerability. It shed that most vibrant part of itself but it did not retract.

It said, "Wind, one day we will dance, bu today we just gently sway."

And then changed the season, as all things change, and it was time to dance. Have you seen how the leaves dance to the wind's beat? I did, one day, when I stopped to rest. The tree invited me and we danced together. He knew what he was, this tree.

And when I asked him why dance, why now in this moment, he said it was windy, and it was time to dance.

He seen sprouted flowers, the tree. He couldn't even contain his leafy dancing joy, so he bloomed life itself, and for a few precious moments he offered the world the vulnerable precious core of his being, his very life essence.

And he danced some more, the dance of life, and the wind fulfilled that most ancient compact to carry him and his offspring where she would, to land in the outstretched hands of Mother Earth and all her children.

I returned again one day, ready to dance the dance of love with the tree, and I found it bare, the vitality of its past rotting at its feet. It started to rain and its barren emptiness didn't even cover me.

"Where is the glory of your past?" I cried out, drenched in this terrible rain. "Where is your dance of love?"

It looked at me with the patience of a tree. "I learned to die so that I may live again," he said. "The former parts of myself I shed to enrich my blood. The rain has come and it is time to rest."

And I realized he was still dancing. How could I love his flowers but not love his death? They were one and the same, one following another in that precious circular rhythm that his rings affirm, that the perfect cycle of the full and new moon dance ever month.

I am a tree, I am the moon, I am the Sun and the Rain and the Wind that invites us to dance. I am not separate, even when I think I've broken off. I am not unwhole even when I only see parts.

The moon shows but a sliver, tonight,
yet its full illuminating
shadow shines through.

I did not realize until tonight,
that though the moon is so rarely full,
it is always present and whole.

So, then, are we.

There's nothing we have to do. We are given this gift and when the wind comes we can dance, when the rain comes we can rest, and in every waking moment we can be awake to that which we are.

"You scour the Earth," says the tree, "and still there you are."

And I say, thank you for inviting me to dance today.

Love,
Ryan

Thursday, October 9, 2008

Yom Kippur: Not Just A Poorly Conceived Jewish Diet Strategy


Self portrait in Curinanco today (I swear I'm not a hunchback).



What the pristine view would look like without people in the way.

At a different beach on a different day. This has nothing to do with my blog, but, I feel it's important to show you all everything (no pun intended, really). I'm proving to the world that it's not just Europeans who can get away with speedos ("zunga" in spanish)


If you ask a group of adolescent Jewish children about Yom Kippur, they'll probably tell you it's the worst holiday conceived by mankind. For most of my life, I've been inclined to agree, because Yom Kippur inhibits one of the things I most enjoy doing in life (no, it is not making puns): EATING!

Yep, Yom Kippur (to pronounce correctly, say "yom" like it rhymes with "gnome," "key," and "poor,") is the most holy of the Jewish holidays. The "Day of Atonement," it is a day spent fasting and apologizing for the wrongs you've committed in the last year. Or, better put, a day spent complaining about how damn hungry you are.

But, being in Chile for this year's Yom Kippur, I felt I should really support Chile's Jewish population of approximately 4 people. Also, I was ready for such a day...I reached a serious lowpoint last Thursday night. It was a sort of build-up of a couple months' worth of things not completely aired out; the loneliness of traveling and not being with close friends, not being able to fully express yourself, missing home. All the stuff that tends to come up on a long journey.

And interestingly enough, something incredible happened that Thursday night, at my lowest point: I accepted how I felt. I said, "I'm sad, and that's okay." And it's incredible what accepting my feelings and opening up to them did. Like this wave of relief spreading through my body. I started to realize how hard on myself I had been for, well, 20 years, how much I had expected of myself to be happy, be a certain way, have things go the "right" way.

So I've been thinking about that this week, about making amends for being so hard on myself. And Yom Kippur arrived just in time. I decided to dedicate the day to fast and reflection. I bussed an hour away to Curinanco and spent the day hiking, enjoying nature, staring out on the cliffs, meditation, writing. It was quite a day. And here's what I wrote while up on a high cliff surrounded by sea and forest and myself:


Here I am. At the tip of this pen. Sitting cross-legged, shoeless, on a grassy hill far above the ocean. Here I am staring at nothing but ocean and trees and dirttrails. Here I am in relative peace, gentle breeze on my face, doing something (writing) I love to do.

I came here for different reasons. One is that it's Yom Kippur, and I'm joining Jews around the world in fasting. There's a beauty in joining in on the same shared action, on taking a day not to eat and dealing with those hunger pangs that inevitably come. There's a beauty, too, in finally celebrating this day in a spiritual way, in using it to emotionally and physically purify me. As Senora Carmen told me, when you fast for God, there's no hunger.

And I also came here because it's a good time to come here. A conscious shift in my life. To accept and celebrate who I am, what I'm feeling. To embrace with an open heart.

Atonement. That's the theme of the day. "Day of Atonement." I want to rethink this day. I used to think of fasting as a punishment for our sings. We've done bad, caused suffering. We must fast to punish ourselves, and ask forgiveness and try not to do it again.

Yes, I want to rethink this day. What if instead of a day to atone for the bad we've done, it was a day of acknowledgement and set intentions? Acknowledgement that we all have this pain, acknowledgement that at times the world really gets us down, that we snap at those we love for silly reasons, that we're often not who we want to be, where we want to be, how we want to be. Acknowledgement that we've struggling here, some of us more than others.

I'll be the first to acknowledge it--I have struggled. A week ago today I sank into one of the deepest depressions of my life. "I think I'm depressed," I told my friend. "It's okay if you are," she told me. "I know," I said. "But it doesn't feel okay."

And as I sank to my lowest I received inspiration from the highest. How hard have I been on myself my whole life, demanding more, not being okay with being sad, fearing who I am, what others will think? I have held myself to the highest standard in the world. I will become enlightened. I will always live joyously. I will heal myself and the world.

Oh Lord, it was exhausting. It still is, when I get caught up in that mode. If anything I should probably seek forgiveness from myself, for not accepting and loving myself, for hiding shamefully as Adam and Eve hid from God in the Garden of Eden after eating a Fuji apple.

But I'm not going to seek forgiveness. There is nothing to forgive. There is only to accept and love. Everything I've ever done, as misguided and lost as it's been at times, has been an attempt to love, perhaps to return to that original and innocent and beautiful love that children give out so willingly. Desperate, fearful, painful, grasping, aversion, greed, confusion, sadness, gluttony, all of the yuckiness we see in the world, in our friends, and ourselves.

Oh we're so lost at times, so far from our love and joy, so far from who we are. So often we're lost, but always we can come back to Me, to ourselves, to our breath, to our body. And when we return, if only for a few moments, there's nothing to apologize for, no sheepish grin needed. You went away trying to love and remembered that your love is here, that all those things that hurt and that you fear are love too, just forgotten and misguided.

Instead of forgiving, just hug and love and acept and be whole. Return to the source, again and again. That suffering we cause, that this holy day calls on us to fast and atone for, comes when we lose touch, when we forget and reject that which we are.

I lament there is suffering in this world. I lament having caused some of it. But I did. I unconsciously did. We all unconsciously did. There's nothing to forgive, there's just to acknowledge and let go, and to love.

I don't want to cause any more suffering. I know I will, at times, but I consciously set this intention to be whole, and to not cause myself and others needless suffering.

That's what this day is for me, not a guilt-trip hang-up on my past, it's an acknowledgement and embracing and letting go of what was, an intention to move forward with all parts of myself, not just the parts that are easiest to love. I don't want to just love the sun. The rain and storm are also part of this life. And I want to love life.

As the hunger sets in and weakens me I am thankful for this physical reminder, this physical cleansing, that accompanies my emotional and spiritual cleansing. I am thankful for the ability to spend my day bowing down to myself and this vast ocean, to spend it reflecting and learning to love myself and others and this world better.

So I acknowledge myself, I acknowledge you, I acknowledge and embrace the suffering we cause and our loving attempts to end it. This is life, man. The energy is chirping and sparkling, just let it roll over you like this forever undulating ocean in front of me. And do it with all of you, because it's too painful to live anyway but whole.

Love,
Ryan

Wednesday, October 1, 2008

4 Month Anniversary=Bob Marley+Large Quantity Of Chilean Honey

Ecuador to Chile: much has changed, including about a 12 pound weight gain (thank you, Chilean pan) and the leaving behind of two good buddies.

It being October 1st, I'd like to wish myself a happy 4 month anniversary in South America. Four months ago today, Max, Gabe and I stood in the airport with clean shaven faces and clean bowels, ready for the blob on the map called Ecuador. 7 weeks later not much was clean, except for our consciences, knowing we had lived it up down South.

And now here I sit, munching on my Senora Carmen homemade bread topped off with too much honey from this Chilean campesino I met who sells his honey by bicycle, listening to Bob Marley (okay, so not everything can be Chilean all the time, all right?) sing "No Woman, No Cry," and then he gets to that part at the end where he says, "Everything's gonna be alright." And it's true. Even with the occassional struggles of being so far from the incredible community I continue to think about, one can't help think, as he listens to Bob Marley's assuring voice with a little bit of sweet Chilean miel (honey) to top it off, that not only is everything gonna be alright, it's gonna be really darn great.

See y'all in 10 months! (If you're thinking about getting pregnant, do me a favor and wait one more month, so I can be there for the birth).

Love,
Ryan

Tuesday, September 30, 2008

Happy New Year, in September

There are many benefits to being Jewish, including 8 days of presents at Chanukah, the freedom to spell the word "Chanukah" (Hanukah, Hannuka, etc.) about a zillion different ways, along of them correct, and the ability to grow sweet curly sideburns, if you're orthodox. But one often overlooked one is that you get to celebrate TWO New Year's, in one year.

That's right, along with never showing up on time, the Jews have their own calendar. And today, a day like any other day for the gentiles of the planet, happens to be Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish New Year.

Now, you shouldn't feel bad for not having known this. Truth be told, Adam (fellow program member) called me this morning at around 2 p.m. to tell me. Thanks to his excellent Jewish initiative, we decided to gather our small Jewish U.S. Valdivian representation of 2 people and meet at my pension tonight for some good 'ole fashioned apples, bread and honey, a Rosh Hashanah classic.

For those of you unaware, the traditional way to bring in the Jewish New Year is with apples, bread and honey. The honey is representative of having a "sweet" new year, which is fitting, given honey's high sugar content. Besides the fact that apples, bread and honey is a bomb diggity combination, it's a really cool simple ceremony.

I had the idea of having us 3 go around in a circle (Allison, wanna-be-Jew, joined us for her first ever Rosh Hashanah) and say one thing we wanted to do to make the coming year more sweet. Adam said he wanted to be more open, Allison said she wanted to take the initiative and talk to more people, and I said I wanted to more fully commit to being here for a year, and consider it my home. It really turned out to be a cool little exercise. I think we all learned something more about each other (and ourselves) that we hadn't known before.

And more than that, I learned that it doesn't just have to be on my two New Year's that I set intentions to have a sweeter next year. Why don't I wake up every day and set my intentions to have a sweeter month, day, heck, even hour? It doesn't have to be Rosh Hashanah or New Year's for that. So maybe I'll start waking up every morning and pledging to have a sweeter day.

And of course, to make the ceremony official, I'll have to include apples and honey. Probably two servings to make sure I'm really serious about a sweet day.

Happy New Years!

Love,
Ryan

Friday, September 26, 2008

Sitting Down To Tea With A Caveman

Sept. 25, 2008

Gratitude and perspective. Two oft-used words. “Be grateful for what you have.” “Just have perspective.” Good advice, certainly. But it’s like giving someone the parts to a model airplane without the instructions, nor even a friendly tip to get started.

So how do I gain gratitude? With perspective, perhaps. How do I gain perspective? With experience, I believe. And why preoccupy with these intangible, lofty ideas, gratitude and perspective?

Because I believe they are key to happiness.

Here is how it works with us uber-intelligent, evolving, developing, civilized humans:

In the beginning was our caveman. Pretty animalistic, uni-brow and all, Cro-magnon man style, but at least peeing upright. A human, by our human standards. What was happiness to a cro-magnon?

One can imagine it was survival. Life was harsh, food unsure. His one purpose in life, to fulfill his biological function, to reproduce, continue the species. He was helped by hormones that told him, “You horny Cro-magnon, you best get spreadin’ yo seed!” And his hunger, his thirst, his adrenaline, no doubt drove him to desperate lengths, made him take down Mr. Wooly Mammoth like it was nobody’s business. Hormone-driven, indeed.

And then, someone saw a decapitated head rolling and thought to invent the wheel, someone saw some wild beets growing and realized the beets were just like them, they too wanted to propagate their seed, so we obliged, and planted. And naturally, if your food is all in one place, ain’t no need to be a wanderlust hunter-gatherer. That’s right, y’all can civilize.

One can imagine these developing homo erectus were fairly pleased for a while. Likely life was still tough, and they had to fend for themselves. But now they were surviving in large numbers, steady food supply. The adults, remembering the tough old days, gratefully smiled fondly at their agriculture, their surplus. But the children, weaned in a civilized world, lacked this perspective. Some of them clamored for something greater. There must be more to this life....

And then the technology began to rain from the sky. Printing press, sewing and weaving, metallurgy, animal domestication, electricity, telephone, planes and cars and trains, sanitation, hot pockets, all the way up to this very moment, to the Internet and iPhone and everything we have in this world.

Every generation, marveling at this new world with its new technology, recalling what the old days were like. Some started calling them “the good ‘ole days” because there was something nostalgic, something beautifully simplistic in the simplicity of yore.

What had the children done, when they clamored for more? They had improved our lives, made them safer, made survival and a steady food source practically guaranteed. Safer, easier. And better?

What was a successful day for Mr. Cro-magnon man? Survival. Food on the dinner plate. Bearing the cold winter. Reproducing. The things we do everyday, that we take for granted, like they’ve always been this easy, handed to us.

What is a successful day today, for you? Not so easy to define now. For some, it’s how much we got done. How much we earned or gained. Perhaps the friendships or relationships we possess or have. The quantity, the surplus, the magnitude. Better?

Now, I think, is the time to answer the question that we complicate more and more every single day: Why?

Why. Just sit with it for a second, this tiny little word that can forever burrow deeper and deeper, to the very core of our beings, the very source of all that is.

Why. Without even answering the question we should probably consider the value and importance in forming the letters. What does it mean to ask why?

To me, it signifies a pause, a break in the flow of things. The right “why” isn’t cause for an immediate one-sentence answer. It’s cause for a pause. For reflection. A desire, perhaps, to stop and understand.

And once we begin to the understand the significance of this all-too-rare question, then perhaps we can begin to attach it to all it could ask us.

How about: why am I writing this? Good question. I’m writing this because I watched The Invisibles in my Salud y Medioambiente class last night, a series of five short films about tragedy around this world. Killer bugs that affect poor populations without health care in Bolivia, war and violated women in the Congo, child soldiers in the 20 year war in Northern Uganda, African sleeping sickness without government investment in delivering the cure, displaced campesinos, removed from their land that sustains them, in Columbian guerilla warfare.

Death, sickness and war, heavy, blood, violence, rape. The worst of humanity. Things I have never experienced. Things I hope never to experience. I felt sick, terrible, helpless as I watched these scenes. How could we do this?

Beyond the guilt and the heartache, know what else I felt, way down deep? Grateful. There it was, like it was always there, waiting for me to say hi. Grateful that I don’t know these things, grateful I have money in my wallet that buys me things like this delicious Te de Navedad and allows me to sit in this bustling café playing Air, shoes off, writing furiously to answer the question “why.”

I felt grateful for a while because while I didn’t experience the movie first-hand, I gained perspective on my life and my luck, the possibilities out there.

So that’s a “why” catalyst, to why I sit writing. But there’s more. There’s also, “why are you really writing this?” What if we asked this question everyday: “Why are you really doing this?” What would it do?

Don’t worry, I’m not dodging my own question. I’m really writing this because I want to be a happy person, and help spread that happiness to others. I’m writing this because I’m always interested in getting to the core, and this seems like a pretty good start.

Happy. I want to be happy. Not so important to get hung up in defining happy...it’s an emotion, a feeling, a state of being. You know deep down what it is, however you decide to call it. We don’t ever have to agree on a definition of happiness, but I truly believe we can see it, feel it, sense it. Whatever word we use, there is a presence, a vibration to this thing I choose to call happiness.

And this movie, The Invisibles, made me consider this happiness. None of that terrible stuff in the movie has happened to me. Am I happy?

Sometimes, yes. Sometimes I’m very happy and joyful. More so in recent years.

Sometimes, no. Sometimes I’m stuck in my own head, cut off from the emotions and needs of others.

And so I wonder, why am I happy only sometimes? What would make the people in that movie happy? Some would be happy to survive, have food on their plate, be sitting with their family members. Where have I written this before?

Ah yes. I remember now. The cavemen. That’s what the cavemen sought. They didn’t seek to buy a new car or iPhone, or to look prettier or be thinner. They sought the simple. They sought survival, basic comfort.

They....oh geez. Ohhhh geez. Pardon me. I was just about to get to a breakthrough point, I’m sure of it, when this caveman sat down at my table.

If there was ever a stereotypical cavemen, he is it. He’s got his loin cloth wrapped around his thighs. Hairy hairy man, hair everywhere. A fantastic beard, and a slightly open mouth, like he’s just as confused as I am about where he is. I suppose they don’t have cafes back where he lives.

This is quite a surprise, to have a caveman at my table. I don’t quite know what to say to him, but it turns out I don’t have to. He’s staring at the tea I’ve been sipping quite unmindfully since I sat down to write this.

“You want some tea, caveman?” I ask.

He grunts like a caveman, in what sounds like an affirmation. The first sip he takes is like an electric shock just ran the length of his slightly stooped caveman body. He grunts at me after recovering, and I understand he wants to know what’s in this magical blend.

“Well, there’s vanilla, from somewhere in Africa where it’s cultivated, I presume.” He raises his busy eyebrow. “Cinnamon, from a tropical region. Other herbs, I’m not even sure what. And electrically heated hot water.” His hairy eyebrow raises even further at the last one. I realize hot water is probably tougher to come by in caveman land. I start to realize the tea I’ve paid little attention to really is pretty darn magical.

Suddenly Mr. Caveman starts sniffing the air like a rabid dog, and I realize he’s smelling the acrid smoke that fills this café like an early morning mist. It’s legal to smoke indoors in Chile.

I start to explain to him. “This is something a lot of people in the world do. 30% of the world’s population, in fact. It calms and relaxes you, which helps people who get stressed from so much work. Interestingly, it significantly shortens your life...statistics say each cigarette takes an average of 5 minutes from your life.”

I see my caveman is pretty dumbfounded at this point. I guess when your life is survival it’s hard to imagine knowingly shortening your life.

I check my watch and see the caveman looking at me. “Oh,” I tell him. “I can only spend a certain amount of time doing this. I have a lot of appointments and things to do today.” I don’t bother explaining further, as I imagine a caveman measures time by the cultivation of his vegetable garden, by the changing temperature of the seasons. Geez, this is like explaining life to a baby....

Babies! That thing we once were! Hmm, babies. Who once told me to live like a baby? Speaking of happiness, in thinking of the most happy people in my life, I have to go with babies.

They’re just so darn simple to please. They’ll play peek-a-boo for hours and scream in delight like it’s new every time. I take my keys out of my pocket several times a day to open the gate to the pension without thinking twice, but give these giggling magic pieces of etched metal to my baby nephew Ethan and he goes crazy. They are a certifiable treasure for him. For me, they’re a tool that lets me in the house.

Why?

Good question. It reminds me of all those questions I asked before all these cavemen and babies entered my life.

I believe I had asked what might make the people in the movie The Invisibles happy, and I said survival, food on their plate, sitting with their healthy family members. Like the cavemen, I imagined, or like babies.

And here’s where I finally get somewhere (signal the celebration drums). We’re not cavemen. Neither are the people in the movie. We’re not babies, either, at least most of us (apologies to you babies out there). No, the only people who are cavemen are those who live in caves, and for most of us, that ended long, long ago.

I’m not proposing we live in caves. We live in houses, pretty sturdy well-built ones, most of them with AC AND central heating. Our sinks obey our command and spit water at us when we turn the lever. I’ll be the first to say, that is pretty darn sweet (“bakan” if you live in Chile).

Yeah, I don’t know how well I’d do as a caveman. I don’t even like caves that much, although I do think the word “spleunking” is fun to say over and over. We live in a modern world. Most of us can’t renounce that. This is our life, and in a way, we would be living in the past if we sat all day bemoaning what has become of our civilization, of all the negative things. We don’t need to feel bad that time sometimes runs our lives, that we don’t always pay attention to our tea, that we smoke cigarettes knowing we’re hurting ourselves. It does nothing to feel bad. But then what do the cavemen have to teach us, if they were then, and we are now?

Who ever said you have to live as a caveman to live like a caveman? Well, maybe the cavemen, but I hear they were pretty rigid in their thinking.

So what does it mean to live like a caveman? First, I think, is just a state of mind. Expectations. If you told a caveman the Internet was down, he wouldn’t complain, he would just sit with you and inquire with a grunt what the Internet is, and once you explained it, he would patiently wait till it was fixed to search “Caveman” on Google images to see if his picture comes up.

Expectations, and along with it that gratefulness and perspective I mentioned at the very beginning of this ditty, before I had even considered a caveman might sit at my table and drink my tea. To occasionally look at the keys we use every day and consider that someone figured out how to make these.

Hmm, but even after all this, even as I write myself into a state of gratefulness and perspective, as I realize I suddenly have this wonderful warm feeling of happiness inside me in this very moment, I wonder if this is still like a de-constructed model airplane without instructions.

I can write this same letter over and over again, stress these same ideas, but will they stick? Will they stick in a world where we all forget this all the time, where the billboards tell me I need more and the TV tells me I should look different? Will this stick if I stay in my same bubble with my same privilege?

I don’t know. I think not. I think we can tell each other to be grateful all day, but I have a feeling it’s the experience and reminders in my life that will make it stick. Reminders:

1. Good friends, certainly, who live joyously and remind me to laugh and not be so serious.

2. Good books, good movies, good teachers who impart this message to me. I want to share the scene that struck me the most from The Invisibles. It’s in the short film about the war in Northern Uganda. The war refugees are gathered inside a building, singing and dancing with joy like you’ve never seen, about the war, about life, pleading for the violence to stop. And they sing “Dancing, we demand that this war ends, that the peace returns.” In the face of mindless senseless destruction they dance. If only they knew how they inspired a privileged kid sitting in a café in Valdivia, Chile, trying to understand in a world very different from theirs.

3. Myself, of course myself, writing or taking pictures or doing whatever it is I need to do to remind myself of the goodness around us. These big three, myself, teachers, and community are indeed excellent reminders. And as we live we start to see that our teachers are everywhere, in our babies and our cavemen and the person sitting next to us, we start to see our community is everyone, that we’re not so different from others. We start to see that myself is connected to all of this, no matter how much we get lost and think we’re all alone.

But I leave myself with this question: where do I go from here? Where do I take this knowledge, how do I remember it, how do I live it? Writing, sharing, exploring, experiencing. Endless incomplete intangible answers.

The most important thing, I’m realizing, is not the answer. It’s the question. It’s continuing to honestly and lovingly ask that question, to live the question and the answer that inevitably follows with purpose, with intention, and yes, a bit of gratitude for simply having thought to ask the question. Shoot, a little gratitude for getting to do this, whatever it is we are doing.

To dig up my Jewish roots, here’s a quote from a Passover seder:

"We must celebrate each step toward freedom as if it were enough, then start out on the next step. If we reject each step because it is not the whole liberation, we will never be able to achieve the whole liberation. We must sing each verse as if it were the whole song‑‑then sing the next verse."

Amen. Dance in the face of everything bad, dance because we give what we can, and that’s always enough, because it’s all we can give.

Sunday, September 21, 2008

Only 2 Out Of 700 Kids Hit On The Fingers With Hammers

click here to see more photos of chile!
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2366922&l=0db01&id=1241186


1. Manola totally dominating me at the teeter-totter.
2. Manola, Jackie, Jorge, Allison and I at beautiful day in the park.
3. Chilean child, totally stoked for fiestas patrias.
4. Bearing the Chilean flag like a true gringo.
5. Trying to jump higher than the snowy volcano, and failing.






http://www.goodmagazine.com/section/Features/adventure_playgrounds

"Over a two-day period this summer, 700 children came through the Adventure Playground. The injury total was two fingers hit by hammers."

Is it bad that this sentence made me crack up laughing? Probably so. But regardless, this is a pretty cool article about Adventure Playground in Berkeley, California, where I go to college. Woot woot Berkeley!

Alright, now to discuss things not involving hammers....

First I need you to go through a little exercise with me. I'd like you to say the word "Chicha" over and over again until you have fully appreciated the word. It's prounounced sort of like a Brooklyn-ite might pronounce the word "teacher" (teacha) except with the "c" instead of the "t."
Thank you.

Chicha is an alcoholic fermented drink derived from corn and other rice cereals. It's old school, which you can tell, cuz it comes in an unassuming unmarked glass bottle with a shady cork. Normally I wouldn't accept such a bottle filled with a suspiciously smelling drink, but as they say, when in Rome, do as the Romans do. And when in Chile, drink 1.5 liters of Chicha...

Let me back up just a bit. The last four days, beginning at midnight on Sept. 18, were the "fiestas patrias," the Chilean version of the U.S. 4th of July celebrations, except that the Chileans get way more stoked and party it up for 3 or 4 days instead of 1. Chile also has a still very alive and vibrant culture and traditions, which come into full bloom during the fiestas. Coolest traditions, in order...

1. Cueca, an old school rural flirting dance involving a man waving a napkin-like thing over his head and a woman with a poofy enough dress to clothe a whole room of naked Chilean babies.
2. Empanadas, fried.
3. Emapanadas, oven baked.
4. Chicha chicha chicha CHIIIIIICHA!!!

There are more, but I've covered the important ones. So back to the recurring theme of Chiccha. Wednesday night, the 17th, kicked off the fiestas in Valdivia, so we went to a park with a bunch of different rooms which all appeared to be doing the exact same thing...playing loud loud salsa-y music too loud for anyone to have a conversation, some people dancing, many people gorging themselves on fried mini empanadas. At around 2 in the morning, my friend Luis and I decided to buy 2 liters of Chicha for the whole table. Friendly gesture, right? 9 people, 2 Liters, enough, right?

Well, when we returned triumphantly to the tables with our 2 liters of chiccha, everyone declined. Even the 3 friendly Chech Republican kids! Man! But I've never believed in letting things go to waste, so Luis and I decided as good citizens of our respective nations, we had to finish the bottle. I think chicha has the same alcohol content as wine. By the end of our chicha escapade, I was officially drunk for my first time in Chile. It was fun. I fell asleep on an uncomfortable chair at 3:30 (damn they do party late here in Chile). We got home at around 4:30 in the morning, and from 3:30 to 4:30 our conversation revolved around floss, because I discovered the Spanish has NO verb for floss, at least that anyone knew of. Outrage, I know. As a favor to Chile, I invented the word "flosear," so they won't have to go around saying, "voy a usar el hilo dental," wasting precious time they could have used to dislodge fried mini empanadas from their teeth.

Four hours letter, Thursday morning, I was ungraciously woken up by Jorge (fellow housemate) and Chicha, my faithful friend who had decided to play a morning rock concert in my brain. Jorge and I had plans to take a bus 3 hours north to Temuco, where he has a lot of family. This almost didn't happen, as we arrived 2 minutes late to the bus terminal, the one thing in Chile which leaves frightenly on time. A dead sprint to the top of the street to intercept Señor Bus got us on, and allowed me and my friend chicha to finally sleep in peace.

Temuco is the fourth-biggest city in Chile. Once we arrived we briefly stopped by the city parade before taking a one hour bus to Cunco, a 6,000 person rural pueblo which I'm convinced is made up of about 3,000 members of Jorge's family. Aunts, cousins, abuelitas (affectionate term for grandmother), they're literally on every corner of the town. As the joke goes, you can't throw an empanada in Cunco in any direction without hitting someone in Jorge's family. Alright, I just made that joke up, but it's totally true.

So the weekend consisted of us meeting different members of his family, celebrating the fiestas patrias with homemade empanadas and gigantic pieces of varied types of meat, and trying not to burst (Chileans are known for their hospitality, part of which is to consistently offer you food, and a slightly offended look if you turn it down). Friday night we went to another fiesta for the Fiestas Patrias, where my dancing spirit was finally awakened. It's true, I was weaned on Cole family bar mitzvah celebrations, so I've had plenty of practice, but a high school experience full of hip-hop school dances with gyrating "freaking" held back my true creative dancing spirit. But something about this Chilean fiesta, with its cigarette smoke creating a thicker haze than an Andes morning fog (there was a 'no smoking' sign inside, but you can't stop a room full of Chileans from smokin', no way no how!), made the dance spirit to come alive. I spun like a rural Chilean woman making her wool yarn. Jorge called me a trompito, which is a Chilean game very similar to the spinning dreidle of yore. I'm inspired now, and plan to take some salsa and meringue classes, to convince my hips and butt that they should also move when I'm dancing (a classic guy problem, I believe).

I also posted a couple of pictures from the sweet national park we visited, which featured a snow-covered mountain burping out lava like it had a serious case of indigestion.

That's about it. Enjoying life down here...send word if you have time!

Love,
Ryan

"We don't stop playing because we grow old. We grow old because we stop playing." --Storefront window, College Avenue, Berkeley, CA.